Room 4 (Part 1)


Room Four
I've been dying to try Room 4 every since it became the kid sister adjacent to Recess, a Greg Hardesty creation that is a f+f favorite.  Faced with a rare summer weekend of no social commitments, we decided to try Room 4 on a Saturday night with our friends Courtney and Josh (who had been there before and raved). 

A Perfect French Dry Rose











Inauspicious decor with a mid-century minimalist edge (not unlike Recess) gives Room 4 a casual, European cafe feel.  It feels like an eatery in Prague or Berlin, or some other tragically hip Euro metropolis. Our server Jessica is casual, approachable, and adorable (much like our entire experience).  We look at the wine list, which is strikingly affordable, with dozens of great bottles under $30 (and several great ones under $25).  We decide on dry rose, and Jessica recommends a beautiful $25 French bottle that is just delightful in this heat.


Quesadilla with Shiitake and Chevre
We decide to order to appetizers for the table.  The Quesadilla with shiitake mushrooms and goat cheese is finished with a spicy (!!!) tomato avocado relish that is amazing.  The dish (for me) is the most surprising dish of the night.  I would never think to pair mushrooms and chevre with a completely Mexican salsa (complete with cilantro, chiles and lime). I suppose it makes sense, as the flavor profiles of Thai and Mexican cuisine actually have a lot in common (cilantro, lime and chiles).  Reagrdless, it is simply a phenomenal combination, and I immediately decide I have to try to copy this at home.  Somehow I think replicating a Greg Hardesty masterpiece may not be a walk in the park, but that won't stop me from giving it a whirl!  Stay tuned for the results....




Kampachi Sashimi
The Kampachi dish was a Vietnamese-inspired wonder.  The cold soba noodles were steeped in a sauce that had cherry and raspberry juices, soy, and probably a bunch of other things that made it thoroughly complex but not confusing at all on the palette.  The fish was prepared sashimi style and was incredible fresh and a perfect complement to the noodles. I had heard of Kampachi, but didn't know much about it.  Apparently it is in the same family as yellowtail and amberjack (it also goes by the less sexy name of almaco jack, while "Kona Kampachi" has become a sort of branding mechanism).   It is worth noting that Kamampachi is high in Omega-3 oils with no detectable levels of mercury. Read more here, as I think this fish is here to stay: 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Almaco_jack.

I have so much to say about Room Four that his will be a two-part review.  So, in a f+f first:

TO BE CONTINUED.....

**note to readers:  At the risk of revealing myself as a total idiot, you should know that I haven't figured out how to use accent marks online yet. I'm well aware that I reference a good number of foreign words that I am currently not doing them justice.  Can anyone help with this please?  As a linguistics major this is an increasing irritation! 

Make It Local Dinner (Chef JJs Backyard + Indiana Brewers Guild)

I have purposely been stalling to write this review.  While I am a huge fan of Chef JJ and his Backyard (located behind McDonald's in Broad Ripple Village), and a major proponent of eating and drinking locally and responsibly, I was not a fan of this meal.

Table Setting
In fact, I'm still a little rattled from the 7/15 meal, as are my 5 dinner companions.  Every year before the Indiana Microbrewers Festival there is a dinner.  It has evolved over the years but it has become rather well-known and rather expensive. This year advance tickets were $75 (plus an unexpected 20% gratuity at the end of the meal).  So we're talking about $200 per couple. A significant amount of ching, but certainly in line for an annual splurge. 

We walk in, get our glass for beer, and are directed back outside to the patio where they are pouring Sunlight Cream Ale (yum) and serving Just Pop In popcorn--caramel and cheddar varieties (both delicious--Carly and Mandy have the best popcorn anywhere!). While this is a nice little "get-the-party-started-while-everyone-walks-in" offering, we are surprised to learn that this was the hors d'oeuvre course. Really?

We sit at assigned seats at tables of 10. Our party has 6 people and we are seated next to 2 couples who are polite and interesting. We are told (via a loudspeaker that isn't working so well) that the format of the evening will include 5 courses, each a collaboration between a local brewer and a local chef, and each featuring a beer that will compliment the course. 

Gangster Bruschetta with Cow Tongue
The first course (plated) is Gangster Bruschetta. I love bruschetta. This particular crostini was topped with cow tongue and a so-called caponata of tomatoes, onions, raisins, apples, and lots of spices. A few people at the table were tepid about it, but most either took one or two bites and left it alone out revulsion (like me) or just ate it because they were really hungry (and maybe a little tipsy by then). It was served with Brugge Spider Beer, which was (admittedly) not brewed for the masses.  It was a near-dead ringer for apple cider vinegar in my opinion.  I did see a tweet declaring it someone's favorite beer of the whole fest, so to each her own.  

The second course was a salad served family style.  It had bourbon-marinated grilled peaches (that had virtually no flavor--bourbon or peach), Indiana micro greens, and a creamy yogurt-Habanero dressing.  The dressing was so spicy in certain spots that it was inedible.  This was paired with a delicious blueberry ale from Mad Anthony (even the anti-fruity beer people at our table loved it). While we were told there would be enough beer on the table for each person to have three taster glasses per beer, it consistently never made it past 1-2 each.
Halibut Cheeks (very good!)
Next was a treat, Halibut Cheeks (flown in, the only non-local main ingredient) with Indiana summer vegetables marinated in Three Floyd's Robert The Bruce.  This was delicious, but it was served family-style and there simply wasn't enough of it.

Sweetbreads with Blueberry-Pecan Romesco
The meat course was a plated entree of sweetbreads (which can be several parts of the animal but we are told this is thymus gland, or brain).  They were served with a blueberry Romesco sauce that featured blueberries and pecans. My sweetbreads were incredibly fatty, but I had a bite of Jeff's and his were much more palatable.  (I'm admittedly pretty averse to really fatty meat).  The Romesco was good on its own but really weird with the sweetbreads.  This course was just weird in general.

Dessert was 2 spicy muffins (they called them doughnuts but they were dense muffins), filled with a pastry cream (supposed citrus but very faint) and rolled in a salt/sugar/cayenne mixture. It was okay, nothing special.

At the conclusion of the meal everyone was joking that we had better hit the McDonald's drive-through because we were neither full nor sated by that bizarre meal.  We are then handed our checks (which we think will be $150/couple) for $200/couple, and we are kind of just amused.  It would take both my hands to count the number of places I would have preferred to eat $200 worth of food.  I'm happy to support my local brewers, growers, and chefs, but not like this.

So here's my synopsis.  Unfortunately, this dinner (which used to be one my favorite nights in Broad Ripple) has morphed into a bit of a charade.  It seemed as if the chefs and brewers were much more focused on impressing each other than on the guests who paid a premium to support them in their craft.  While I will continue to emphatically support my local vendors, I will not be spending any of my hard-earned money on this event next year.  Unfortunately, my entire table of 10 agrees.

Salmon Bundle

I used to wait tables at a great little gourmet restaurant in Zionsville called the Pidge.  The Owner/Chef, Casey Uglow (who still has a cult following), had three amazing years of making Indianapolis Monthly's Top 50 Indy Restaurants, but just couldn't make it work and sadly shut her doors in 2003. Zionsville is still in mourning.

The Pidge was the only food eastablishment I worked that I never got tired of the food. Working mostly double shifts for a full year (I was in full-on money-saving mode), that is something to be said. In fact, our half-price entree each shift was the highlight of each day, carefully planned and highly anticipated. My favorite lunch offering was something called the Salmon Bundle.  I still salivate when I say the name.

It is an unassuming spinach tortilla filled with grilled mushrooms and salmon, fresh spinach, dilled Havarti cheese and a roasted garlic aioli. Mayophobe that I am, I leave that part out (I swear it is just as good, but you can judge for yourself).  I would give you a schemata, but you already know all the ingredients and it's very self-explanatory.  Just make sure the grill is nice and hot and everything gets lightly charred.  Wrapping up the ingredients tightly and grilling the entire wrap is also key, as it lets the cheese fully melt and the flavors combine.  

Before eating this heavenly burrito-of-the-gods, I never thought of fish and cheese together. (I suppose with the exception of a parmesan-crusted white fish).  Now I routinely pair fish (full-flavored fish work best) with chevre, herbed boursin, and dilled Havarti.  I also find that salmon and bleu cheese works nicely.  This particular bundle is one of the best bites I have ever eaten, and I still make it when I have a lunch guest that I really want to impress. In fact, I think it will be on our menu for dinner tomorrow.... Cheers!

Capri

Capri, a very traditional Mafioso-feel Italian restaurant, is located at 75th and College, adjacent to the Glick Junior Achievement center.  Despite its proximity to Walmart, it has an impeccable ambiance (even on the patio overlooking the parking lot).  Mature vines make up an arboretum that covers the entire deck, transporting you to Europe.  In this heat though (at 7:30pm the heat index was still well over 90F), we opt for the lounge.

The Fireplace in the lounge area of Capri
Torrey is my dinner date du jour.  She is the adorable, Purdue-bound youngest daughter of my dear friends Cara and Chris.  Her graduation gift from yours truly is helping me review three eateries this summer, this being our maiden voyage.  I have been to Capri several times, but sweet Torrey has never even heard of it, so I am anxious for her perspective.  Torrey comes from a foodie family.  In fact, her dad was just named the newest General Manager of St. Elmo. Torrey informs me that she has already been to this proud Indianapolis landmark 3 times since her dad started (two weeks ago). After hearing every last detail of the mouth-watering morsels she enjoyed at each of her three (3!) meals, I am certain she will be a touch critic partner. Let the games begin!

Caesar Salad + Shrimp Fra Diavola at Capri
We walk in and Torrey, ever the romantic (she is 17, after all), is immediately cooing over the setting and the sweet elderly Italian-accented man who seats us in the lounge (oblivious to the fact that Torrey is a minor and this is almost certainly against our archaic Indiana liquor laws).  He seats us at a romantic table in the corner near the fireplace (perhaps he thinks there may be canoodling? Doubtful. I am grateful for the prized restaurant real estate nevertheless).

Our server is a handsome middle-aged, Italian man with a thick accent.  His name is Michael--slightly disappointing... why not Fabio or Pietro or Giovanni? (I think if I were Michael I would have a stage name that sounds more Italian). Regardless, Torrey declares the menu "Amazing!" and we order Shrimp Fra Diavolo as an appetizer, Caesar salads, and respective pasta dishes.  I order the Tortelloni, modified to be prepared Bosceola-Style (tomato cream sauce and portobella mushrooms). Torrey opts for the Tagliatelle de Fattore (thick ribbon noodles with cream sauce, chicken, sun-dried tomatoes and asparagus).

The shrimp are fantastic.  The are large, taste very fresh, and are bathed in a rich, extra-garlicky tomato sauce peppered with fresh cherry tomatoes and chili flakes.  The only sad part is that there is nothing to mop up the sauces (until we start using the fresh, hot rolls on the table--mission accomplished).  The Caesar salads are classic: creamy, rich, and full of the complex, nutty anchovy flavor.  Beware the croutons--they are the type that can hurt your mouth if not handled with care (very crunchy!). 

The pastas arrived.  We each tasted and loved both.  Gracing my bowl were ricotta-stuffed pasta pockets basking in creamy tomato sauce with earthy mushroom back notes.  Torrey is not a fan of mushrooms but loved it none the less.  Her dish was perfectly al dente, with a rich cream sauce and loads of flavors.  Her minor complaint was the chicken (slightly dry).  

Everything worked together very nicely, and we were stuffed.  Capri gets 4/5 for its old-world ambiance, moderate pricing, and oh-so-classic food. This is a perfect place for a date (ask to be seated in the lounge), a birthday dinner, or a business meal requiring heavy conversation. Salute!