Napolese

Double Chopped Salad (Vegetarian)

Napolese has been touted as a great place to have an authentic Neopolitan pie (imagine that, given the name). I contend that it is this-- and oh so much more.

I send everyone I know to Napolese, especially for date night. The restaurant is casual, intimate, and bustling without being obnoxious. It is also a place where you know immediately that the crowd is comprised of regulars who are definitely in the know. There may be a wait, but never mind. Have a glass of wine and wait it out. The staff is efficient enough that they usually beat the estimated wait time significantly. It would be nice if there were a larger place to wait (it can be tricky to not feel like you are in the way of the service machine that characterizes the entire Patachou brand), but the whole Euro vibe makes you feel a little "C'est la vie" about the whole situation.

The wine list is great. It is Italian excepting a few whites from California, New Zealand, and the like. I really like the Quattro Mani Montepulciano (Abruzzo) a great value at $8 a glass. The Maschio Prosecco Brut (Treviso) is a great bet for a date. At a $24 bottle, it suits most tastes with its off-dry finish and fruit-forward bouquet.

The beer list is comprised entirely of local Sun King selections and a few Italian imports (Peroni, etc). I applaud the effort, but it's just too expensive (each beer is $6) for non draught options. I'd always elect to drink the wine given the choice, but perhaps that is by design.

The salads are my favorite part of this menu.  I can't resist the double chopped salads (an "everything but the kitchen sink" style of salad dressed with a lively vinaigrette). The vegetarian version is my favorite in the fall and winter, because it typically includes roasted squash. The don't list everything in the salads because it fluxes according to the seasonal pie toppings. The version I had on this night had mixed greens with roasted squash, broccoli, garbanzo beans, roasted peppers, shaved mushrooms and several kinds of cheese. I am also obsesses with the arugula salad with shaved mushrooms, simply dressed with Parmigiano Reggiano, olive oil, and sea salt.  The salads are perfect for 2 people to share.

The pizza truly is the main event at Napolese. It lives up to the hype. The oven (kept at a scorching 650F or so) creates the perfect, tender-on-the-inside, almost-burnt-on-the-outside crust. I haven't yet had the pleasure of eating pizza in Napoli, but I have it on good authority that this is as close as it gets. Knowing Martha Hoover's exacting standards and attention to every culinary detail, I tend to believe it. We choose the It's Not Easy Being Green pie with arugula pesto, new potatoes, wild mushrooms and provolone. Since we are seated at the counter, we see the cooks in action, treating our pizza with care as they stretch the crust, top the pie and slide it into the belly of the beast. We watch our little pizza in the oven for every painstaking minute that it cooks, anticipating with great joy the moment where we get to devour it. Devour we did. In fact, we were so frenzied that I forgot all about the photo until we were halfway through (my bad). It was delectable! The flavor combination was perfect, and the pesto (admittedly oilier than a red pie) added so much flavor with it's mild but peppery arugula bite. I should mention that we split a salad and a pie and had plenty of food (though we did opt to take some homemade gelato home for later).

It's Not Easy Being Green pie

**I also recommend getting a side of the pizza sauce for dipping the crust (especially for a white or pesto pie). You have to order it when you order your pizza, though, because they heat it in the oven and it takes several minutes. No microwave on site- how refreshing!

I give Napolese 4/5. The only ways it could improve is 1) more space while you are waiting for your table and 2) the beer pricing. Other than those minor detractors, I think Napolese is the perfect night out for a reasonable cost. For 2 glasses of wine, salad, pizza, and gelato we paid $55 with tax and tip. Not too shabby for a night of European enjoyment in the neighborhood.

Hiatus Over!

So I took a hiatus. January just called for a break from blogging. Refreshed, I start 2012 clear-headed and ready to go. Lots has happened in the world of food and wine, so bear with me as I attempt to cover it all without wasting anyone's time!

Here are some things coming up...

Reviews: Napolese, Noah Grant's, Ambrosia, Ripple Inn, Libertine (part 2)

Recipes: Lots of easy pasta dishes, Kahlua-Maple French Toast

Excursions: Nashville (TN), Chicago, etc etc

+ Much more (bargain wines, cocktail ideas, etc).

Best Holiday Party Wines!

A memorable holiday party deserves a great party wine. Good party wine is easy to find. Great party wine is a little trickier. In my opinion, great party wine shares the following characteristics:

1. It is interesting. Everyone serves Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. Why? Honestly, I am not sure, other than maybe habit. I always try to show my guests something new or at least unexpected.  Wine can start a conversation, inspire someone to get out of their well-worn habits, or challenge a preconceived notion. Why NOT?

Marcato Soave

2. It is low-maintenance. Great party wine is drinkable, with or without food. It doesn't require perfect food pairing, exact temperature, decanting, or fine crystal to enjoy. Some of it even comes with a screw cap (I know!).

3. It is the very best quality you can get for an affordable price. Enough said.

Here is my current line-up of great party wine. Again, my philosophy in wine (and life) is to look away from the large producers to encounter often spectacular best kept secrets.

1. Marcato Soave 2010 (Veneto, Italy) $10

This is my favorite new find. @DalaiWino suggested this as a dry wine alternative, and it was great advice. It is bright and crisp like a sauvignon blanc, but it is soft and floral and not as acidic or fruit forward. It will please both the Pinot Grigio crowd, the grass-and-citrus Sauvignon Blanc crowd, and the white Bordeaux crowd.

2. Foris Pinot Noir 2008 (Rogue Valley, Oregon) $17

This is a perfectly balanced Pinot Noir. It will please fans of European-style leaner Burgundy and the fruitier, spicier California-style enthusiasts. It is delicate with it has great structure, and is delightful to sip throughout a night of various hors d'oeuvre.

 

3. Arido Malbec 2010 (Mendoza, Argentina) $10

This is my medium-bodied go-to wine for company. I liked this description so much I didn't even bother with my own: (www.delavin.com) "Delicate red fruit and violet aromas interact with classic Malbec spiciness. Soft and round in the mouth with balanced acidity and sweet tannins."

4. Mistinguett Cava Brut Rose (Spain) $15

Ahh, the bubbly... an absolute holiday party essential. It does not have to be champagne. This cava is a methode champenoise beauty, meaning it is made to the exacting standards of sanctioned French Champagne. It has a gorgeous color and an elegant bouquet. It is floral, bright, and off-dry. Perfectly delicious on its own, it has no need for the aid of fruit juice, lavender syrup or St Germaine (not that any of those are a bad idea!).

5. Il Cuore Rosso Classico 2007 (Mendocino County) $13

This wine is my Cabernet alternative. It is a blend of Zinfindel, Syrah, Merlot, Petite Syrah and Petite Verdot from Mendocino County. It is a huge wine that is drinkable and subtle. It has notes of tobacco and chocolate following an initial punch of dark cherry and cassis. 

Cheers to great party wine. If you have favorites, please share them!

our PRECIOUS new addition

Last week was a big week in the Fanning-Bowman house.  Our Weber gas grill--at least 15 years old by most estimates and recollections--finally got sent to grill heaven.  The cost to fix the old girl just outweighed what new grills actually cost. I will give Jeff credit, though, he put in some serious effort (tinkering, ordering parts, offering prayers to the grilling gods, etc) to save the grill I had been using for over half of my earthly existence.

Our New Addition

After the appropriate period of mourning, we decided to go in an entirely new direction. Largely for cost reasons, we opted for a Weber charcoal grill with a gas ignition. We needed a great inaugural meal to welcome this lovely little grill into our home and patio.  Inspired by a gorgeous pork tenderloin sourced at Fresh Market, we invited a bunch of friends and family over to welcome our new addition.

The night before, I used this marinade:

1/3 c. canola oil

1/2 c. balsamic vinegar

3 cloves minced fresh garlic

1 t sea salt

1 t course ground pepper

2-3 T chopped fresh rosemary

I placed the tenderloin in a 11x13 Pyrex baking pan, coating the meat with the marinade.  It's best to let this hang out in the fridge, covered in plastic wrap, for 24 hours or so. I turned it once the next morning.

The next day, as Jeff got the coals ready (with the propane started it only took 25 minutes!), I put some apple wood chips in a loose foil packet in the grill to create some smoking action. We put on the pork (medium heat) for about 15 minutes, turning once.  I like my pork cooked just past medium, so it is slightly pink consistently throughout.  The most important part is to let the tenderloin rest for at least 10-15 minutes before you carve it to let the juices redistribute evenly into the meat.

We served this amazing pork with oven-roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, lightly dressed arugula salad (lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper), oven-roasted garlic and rosemary red potatoes & onions, and sea salt and rosemary bread from Fresh Market that we had grilled with an herbed garlic butter.

We served it with DeLoach Pinot Noir (brought by one of our esteemed dinner guests), and it was a beautiful complement to the subtle smoke of the pork. The charcoal made an enormous impact of the flavor of the meat (and the bread). I am officially a charcoal convert.  

I am confident that no grill has felt more love than our new addition that night.  The ooohing and ahhhing just didn't stop. Now all we need is a name.  Suggestions?  Cheers!

Seasons 52 Autumn Menu Highlights

Seasons 52 generously invited Indy food bloggers to a preview of their new fall menu.  There were so many courses and delicious offerings that I figured I would cut to the chase and provide the highlights and (and skippables).

Highlights:

Pumpkin Pie with Ginger Snap Crust

Ahi Tuna Seared Rare, sliced and served chilled with Asian cucumber salad and sesame crisps: probably the best seared tuna dish I have had in a long time.  The tuna is at an amazingly high quality, and it shines through.

Organic Arugula Salad with truffle dressing, Portobella mushrooms and Parmesan cheese: This was hands-down my favorite of the night. The dressing was full of intoxicating truffle flavor. My mouth started to water as soon as they set down the plate. It was simple and luxurious.

Gorgeously Prepared Brussels Sprouts

Spring mountain Farms All-Natural Chicken Cabernet with vegetables and Lundberg wild rice: comfort food at its best. The wild rice was incredibly tasty, and the Cabernet sauce (a surprise for me with chicken instead of beef) tasted like it has simmered all day.

Oak Grilled Filet Mignon with Yukon Gold garlic mashed potatoes, fresh vegetables and roasted mushrooms Fantastic quality, the Piedmontese beef was beautifully enhanced (but not overwhelmed) by the smoky oak flavor.

Pumpkin Pie Mini Indulgence with Ginger Snap crust: I'm not a pumpkin pie enthusiast but I could've eaten 10 of these. The ginger snap crust was a pleasantly sharp counterpoint to the velvety pumpkin.

Skippable:

Maple Leaf Farms Duck Chop Salad with apples, mint, cranberries, butternut squash, toasted pecans: this salad tasted a little confusing.  The mint was overpowering with all of the other wonderful fall flavors. 

Manchester Farms Boneless Grilled Quail Breast with mashed sweet potatoes and bourbon-chili glaze:  I found the quail to be too oily and the sweet potatoes a strange flavor combination with the glaze. Again, a little confusing.

The Winning Wine

All in all, we had a tremendous experience.  The quality of ingredients and skill of the kitchen staff is undeniable.  The Executive Chef took great care in explaining where he carefully sourced each ingredient, using local, all-natural, organic and sustainable products wherever possible. What I appreciated most (and this is evident in my list above), was that the vision is to allow the food taste like the best version of itself. At Seasons 52, they don't muck with the ingredients too much, opting for simple preparations and harmonious flavors to let the food speak for itself. It is truly refreshing (and healthy, of course!) Bravo, Chef! I'll certainly be celebrating the season at Seasons 52. Cheers!

Destination Garlic (New Smyrna Beach, FL

Puttanesca with Shrimp

This past weekend I was at the beach with some amazing women celebrating our dear friend's wedding (right around the corner). The weekend could be summed up by these words: laughter, sun, beach, friendship, wine, and Garlic.  That's right--garlic with a capital G. The Garlic is an institution in New Smyrna Beach.  It is an Italian cult classic; locals and Central Florida vacationers alike go to the Garlic to celebrate anniversaries, birthdays, weddings right around the corner, and anything worth a fabulous meal (Tuesday works for me).

The Garlic patio

I am the only one in our group that had not experienced his wonderland before.  When we walk in, we wind through a hall of distinctive pottery for sale, inside patios, outside decks, dining rooms, a bar...  I make a note not to go to the restroom by myself or I may never find our table again! The vibe feels like Key West + beach cantina + my [non-existent] Italian great-grandmother's cucina.  The whole place says "Salute!" so we fittingly order a great bottle of prosecco (Zardetto) and toast the bride to be.

Crusty Bread with Roasted Garlic

While we are deciding on our entrees, we are brought a crusty baguette with an entire head of slow-roasted garlic with olive oil, salt, pepper, and parmesan. It is music to my mouth, and pairs beautifully with the prosecco. We order entrees and more wine (Sauvignon Blanc to go with our seafood pasta). I should mention how wonderful our server was. We kept going around the table and telling stories of our bride (laughing, crying, snorting, we got messy), and she waited for the right moment to take our order, sensitive to our wine-heightened emotional state.

I order their house specialty, the Linguini Puttanesca, and pay homage to the beach by adding shrimp.  Also ordered: Prosciutto and Pea Tortellini and Shrimp and Scallop Scampi. 

The pottery room at the Garlic

Salads come with every entree, and I upgrade to a Caesar. I am so happy about this salad: the classic dressing is nutty and briny with anchovy, the croutons that are more cheese than bread... perfection.

The entrees arrive and everything was fabulous.  The Puttanesca was sublimely spicy and salty with capers, imported olives, and chunky San Marzano tomatoes. I was a little concerned that the shrimp would be overwhelmed by such a powerful sauce, but the combination was amazing.  The tortellini was in an unctuous pecorino romano garlic cream sauce. The uber-fresh seafood made the Shrimp and Scallop Scampi, but the rest of the dish was a little bland.

We are so incredibly full at this point, but we cannot resist dessert.  We just don't want this night to end! We order a mile-high dark chocolate cake, and a cream brulee cheesecake. Absolutely delicious. The only thing I can say is thank goodness we are finished with the bikini part of the weekend!

Caesar

The garlic gets a strong 4/5.  The ambiance is one-of-a-kind. [An aside: I may have neglected to mention a man bursting out in opera every few minutes, adding to the festivity (and hilarity) of the night.]  The food was divine, the service was outstanding, and I can't imagine a better way to celebrate approaching nuptials, or anything else for that matter.  Salute!

quick favorites round-up

The following is a quick round-up of current f + f obsessions.

Pizzology's weekday lunch special

You get a Pizzeta Persona (definitely big enough to be satisfying) + small chop salad or a cup of the daily house made soup + fountain soda or fresh brewed iced tea for $9.  (served M-F from 11a-2p). Right now I'm digging mushrooms and smoked mozzarella on a red pie, and prosciutto and artichokes on a white pie.

Kokomo 2008 Cuvee 4791 Dry Creek Valley

This blend is the perfect wine to go with a chilly autumn evening and a fireplace.  Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfindel, Carignan, Petitie Syrah, and Syrah combine to make a nose filled with leather and blackberry.  The body is full of rich oak and dark fruit, and the finish is dry and earthy.  It has a great mouth feel which makes it deliciously sippable with no food.  I happened to pair it with dark chocolate, and it was a home run.

NEW 1933 Lounge (St Elmo)

This upstairs lounge is everything what the downtown scene has been begging for! It is cozy, comfortable, chic, and the personal service is unmatched in other night spots. The ambiance is warm, with a vintage-industrial Americana feel. I know this will be incredibly popular, but selfishly I would love for it to stay under the radar.

 
Riondo Rosé Prosecco with a  splash of St. Germain Perfection. Enough said.

Chimichurri Pesto

I've been buying this at the Broad Ripple Farmer's Market (my favorite is from the Country Mouse stand, but there are a few other vendors).  It is hands-down the best way to prepare lamb kebabs.  Marinate the kebab meat in the pesto (1/2 c), lemon zest, 1/4 c of olive oil, and 1/2 cup of plain yogurt for up to 48 hours.  As soon as the kebabs come off the grill, brush them with more pesto and serve. I serve them with couscous and grilled veggies. This is also a great marinade for pork chops (just lose the yogurt). The pesto freezes beautifully for year-round use.

2005 Amphora Cabernet Sauvignon, Polesky Vineyard (Sonoma County)

This cab is the perfect way to usher in the autumn chill.  It is big and bold, but well-balanced and round.  Be sure to decant it, as it is much better after it has an hour to breathe.

Trader Joe's English Cheddar with Caramelized Onions

This is a great party cheese.  It's unexpected sweetness plays well against the sharpness of the cheddar, and keeps the crowd interested ("wow! what is that?" will be exclaimed multiple times). It's a no-brainer to serve with any cracker or crostini you have lying around the house.

People's Mound Builder IPA (Lafayette, IN)

While we always try to have great local beer on tap in our basement bar (affectionately known to our neighbors and friends as the Paxton Pub), all of our house guests just can't stop talking about this one.  It has huge hops but is very smooth.  Check it out.


Cheers!

1933 Lounge (St Elmo)

Well, well, well.. what do we have here?  Could it really be true?  Downtown Indianapolis has a real lounge? It's true. Better yet, it's the kind of place you want to sit down and [literally] stay awhile. It's smoke free. It's not overly noisy (even when crowded!). It's beautiful. It just may be perfect. 

St. Elmo's opened its upstairs 1933 Lounge this past weekend. As an unabashed lounge enthusiast and a huge fan of the concept of enjoying an evening out without having to eat in a traditional restaurant, I braved opening night.  Call me crazy, but I just couldn't keep myself away. Maybe it was a foodie's instinct, but I just had a hunch this place would be special.  This is Elmo after all, and they take their reputation seriously.

We are ushered upstairs at the front door and immediately greeted by a lovely hostess. The host staff is comprised of lithe beauties in their own red dresses (brilliant!), making them as easy to find as they are stylish. As Elmo does, the place is staffed to the nines, completely thwarting the concept of being slammed, giving poor service, and having unsatisfied guests.

I have to take a little time to gush about the decor. I instantly fall in love with the exposed brick, beautiful wood floors and eclectic lighting. This place is big--but it feels cozy and approachable. Every seating area has it's own unique feel--antique mirrors, sideboards, chandeliers, or sconces set each area apart--but it is a very cohesive concept. I can't stop staring at everything because it is just so darn gorgeous. Ahhhh... I digress.

The signature cocktail

Back to the review! We opt for a seating area with a comfy cognac leather sofa and two great club chairs. We decide to give the place the full Monty:  appetizers, specialty cocktails, the works! Courtney and I order the French 75.  The boys order the signature Elmo Cola, which is a fancy bourbon and Coke. Then we order apps.  I am in love with their menu, because you can actually eat a full meal without ordering a bunch of fried food or super-heavy dips. Leave it to Elmo to have not one, not two, but four beef options as appetizers!

Like beef-starved travelers fresh out of India, we order all four: Filet Chops (I've only heard of this mysterious wonder), Beef Carpaccio, Filet Sliders and Mac + Cheese, and a sliced New York Strip with Parmesan Crisps.  Though we try really (really!) hard to eat like civilized folk in a high-society setting, we still manage to wolf down everything in a matter of a few minutes. The food blew all of us away. Between Courtney and Jeff we have about the two biggest and most critical beef eaters I've ever seen, so that's really saying something!

The carpaccio is the best version any of us had ever had.  The cheeky menu touts it as "pounded nirvana," and I can't disagree.  The arugula, capers, parmaggiano reggiano, and lemon were just perfect compliments to said pounded nirvana. The macaroni and cheese had a pleasant and surprising amount of white pepper, which combined with the bacon to make it zingy (and not too salty!). The sliders are always awesome (we knew that going in).  The sliced New York was topped with an herb-garlic butter sauce that was to die for.... Those little filet chops (think lamb chop but of filet mignon) were succulent and definitely worthy of the Elmo name.

We also loved our cocktails.  The French 75 has gin, St. Germain, prosecco, and lemon (I secretly think they concocted this just for me).  The Elmo Cola was cute... served with mini Coke bottles with an optional $8 shot to make a second cocktail with your leftover half-bottle.  Jeff likes those little bottles so much he just drank his straight up. The Spicy Margarita was a little watered-down at first, but they fixed it and it was great. The Russian Mule was served in a funny little copper mug.  It had the very distinctive flavor of strong ginger beer.

Our service was impeccable.  The General Manager, Chris, stopped by right away and periodically checked in to make sure everything was up to snuff.  Our server was friendly and attentive.  On night one the place seemed to run like a well-oiled machine. As a veteran of this industry I understand just how rare (and improbable) that is.  Then again, this is Elmo, and they get it right.

Filet Chops

Carpaccio

Slider w/Mac+Cheese

Russian Mule

New York with Parmesan

French 75 (aka F+F)

Sublimely Happy Foodie

 I give 1933 Lounge top marks of 5/5. It's pricey, but it's worth it. Jeff and I decided we will enjoy this prime location at least one a month, even if it is just for a cocktail and a split beefetizer.  I will absolutely take my boss the next time she is in town, because she will love me (and Indy) more afterward. The food and drinks are outstanding, the service is personal, and the ambiance cannot be beat. I will continue to rave about this remarkable downtown gem. As I told Chris (the GM), I may never go downstairs again. Cheers!

Make It Right (part two)

...continued from the Sept 8 2010 post

Indiana Duck

Let me catch you up. At this point in the evening we are feeling fine. We have had fabulous wine and amazing food up until this point, and Chef JJ and his staff have been personal, attentive, and a true pleasure.  Our table company (a recipe blogger named Kate and her husband Connie) is absolutely hilarious.  The conversation couldn't be better: full of great stories and personalities.  We are having such a great time that we don't want the night to end.

So far every course has been better than the last.  First came the wow-worthy smoked beef bruschetta with its pickled vegetable crunch and subtle barbecue back notes.  Then came the amazing chilled cucumber soup that was equal parts refreshing and indulgent.  Next, the roasted prawn panzanella impressed even the biggest panzanella critic at our table (yours truly) with its fresh take on the Italian summer classic.   

Then came the duck. Oh my goodness was that duck amazing!  The skin was so crispy, the meat so tender and succulent. There was just enough smoky house-made barbecue sauce to add an acidic component.  The biggest surprise was the corn.  The unassuming half-cob on the plate was the best corn I have ever had.  Coming from someone who has lived in Indiana much of her life, this is saying something.  It was smoke-grilled to perfection and finished with a garlic-basil butter. 

As good as the duck was (and it was!), the pork tenderloin was a fierce rival.  We went back and forth the rest of the night debating the merits of each.  The pork was slow-smoked and finished with a red currant jus full of herbs and aromatics.  Cooked to perfection (still pink throughout), it was to die for.

Roasted Pork Loin w/Currant Jus

To forget Grandma Betty's homemade pound cake (cooked right on that crazy little EGG), would be like forgetting the sweetest kiss at the end of a first date.  Impossible. It would be like forgetting to wake up for your presents on Christmas morning (unthinkable).  Grandma Betty's pound cake, topped with gooseberries, strawberries and blackberries, was the perfect end to this unbelievable meal. The chantilly cream, scented with fresh vanilla, was delightfully unsweetened to bring out the sweetness of the fruit.  Often, I think whipped cream (and its added sugar) puts a dessert into the "so-sweet-you-can-barely-taste-it" category.  When I tasted that chantilly cream, my conviction that Chef JJ's Backyard just gets it was unshakable.  They have that special something you can't teach, the intuitive ability to pair flavors so that the total experience truly is greater than the sum of its parts.

Grandma Betty's Poundcake w/Gooseberries

I am so appreciative that, after some difficult feedback (on food that wasn't all theirs, no less), Chef JJ's Backyard chose to redeem the Make It Local dinner by completely blowing their guests away.  I am convinced that every single person who attended the Make It Right dinner will be a raving fan of Chef JJ and his staff's innovative EGG cooking for the long haul.  Our party has already discussed what sort of private event we can dream up just to approximate that experience again.  The best compliment I can give Chef JJ is my business, and I can assure you all that I will be a loyal customer. Cheers!

Chateau de Pique

Chateau de Pique Tasting Room

A friend of mine called me up and said she had a great little girls after-hours planned.  She had a Groupon for a new tasting room called Chateau de Pique in Castleton. Knowing nothing about Chateau de Pique, I said sure.

The Groupon was a 10 varietal tasting for four (10 wines? wow!) with a cheese and fruit platter* in an adorable little train car. Nice enough. Gary is our tasting guide for the evening, and poor Gary is completely slammed with Groupon tables like us. He is adorable and accommodating, but I can tell he is new to the wine industry and I immediately feel for him as he tries to keep up with his tables' demands.

He gives us a brief history of Chateau de Pique, their wines, et cetera. Their winery and vineyard is in Seymour.  I notice that their tagline is "One of the finest wineries in Southern Indiana**"--uh oh. Still hopeful, I make my selections from their long list of wines (22 including port). I notice a lot of red flags on their list (for instance, lots of fruit wines and wines labeled "sweet"). Determined to keep an open mind, I choose a varied selection. I glance over at my friend Laurie (who is a knowledgeable wine consumer), and I detect a hint of doubt under her optimistic smile. We must press on!

Chateau de Pique Tasting Room

The Riesling was fine. It really was.  But for $15 the bottle it would never be my choice. The Traminette (a popular Indiana grape) was ok. The eight other wines we tasted were pretty terrible.  As I look at my tasting notes, each one has a word next to it that is not so nice.  "Hot" appears often (ie, all you taste is the alcohol), as well as "petrolly" (aka jet-fuelish), "too astringent," "as much oak as a tree," and "crazy smoky."  I have high hopes for the fruit wines, but they were so incredibly sweet I felt like I needed to brush my teeth immediately in order not to incur emergency dental bills.

Poor Gary, he did his best.  When we asked for a dump bucket, he was visibly saddened and I truly felt bad. But Gary:  if you are reading this, don't despair!  A little more time in this industry and your eyes will be opened to wine that will knock the socks off of your customers (in a good way). We tipped Gary well and left knowing we would never buy any wine from Chateau de Pique. Oh well, at least it was just a Groupon.  Cheers!

*I should note that the cheese plate was cubed cheddar and colby-jack with Ritz crackers and grapes. Oh well. 

**I do want to note that I have had some great experiences with Indiana wine, namely with Creekbend and Mallow Run wines.  Indiana wine is not California wine (some wineries do use California grapes, however, like Cateau Thomas).  Nevertheless, Indiana wine does have some good surprises.  I encourage you all to keep an open mind (just skip Chateau de Pique).

Make It Right Dinner (follow-up to Make It Local)

The Make It Local dinner, as chronicled in this blog, was not my favorite meal or event of the year.  In fact, it didn't even make the top 100.  It was a thorough disappointment after several years of enthusiastic participation and high expectations.

Chef JJ addressing one of his tables

While Chef JJ's Backyard did not provide all of the food for that dinner, they were the hosts. Within a few days of posting the f+f blog about the event, they had emailed me thanking me for my honest feedback (impressive). Also within a few days, the owners of Chef JJ's Backyard had organized a "Make It Right" concept: a series of available dinner dates for everyone who had attended the first event (beyond impressive).  We reserved our spot immediately.

Stunning opener of smoked Beef Bruschetta

If ever there was a successful customer service initiative, this was it!  From the moment we walked in we were treated like something between close family (remembering each of our names all night) and royalty (the service level was impeccable).  The food was mind-blowing, but we'll get to that. 

Chef JJ started off by an informal introduction to address the reasoning behind the Make It Right.  Though they weren't directly responsible for all of the details of the Make It Local event, they wanted to take this opportunity to thank us for our support and show us their brand of food and service. Dually noted!

We started off drinking some phenomenal wine provided by Graybull Organic Wines and local beer from Sun King Brewery while we met the people at our table. I should note that my glass never even made it to half-way empty.

Roasted Prawn Panzanella + Chilled Cucumber Soup

The first course was a home run called Dig-IN's Beef Bruschetta**. This was the description on the menu: "slow smoked beef shoulder paired with our famous grilled bread and spicy pickled Indiana vegetables." What the description didn't say was how the beef melted in your mouth, the crunch from the pickled carrot and onion exploded with flavor, and the subtle watermelon-peach barbecue sauce set the whole thing off. I didn't start the meal exceptionally hungry (late lunch), and I made a Herculean effort not to wolf down my generous portion in 5 seconds.  In fact, our incredibly chatty table ceased all conversation in favor of appreciative "mmm" noises.  What a start!

The soup and salad course was a duo of chilled cucumber soup and a roasted prawn panzanella. If you've ever eaten at my house you are probably familiar with panzanella--that incredible summer staple of crusty toasted bread, tomato, mozzarella and basil in some sort of delicious vinaigrette. Truthfully, I have never liked anyone else's better than mine. Believe me, I know how narcissistic this sounds, but it is true... everyone has that one thing that they rock! This roasted prawn version was heaven.... The chilled cucumber soup was creamy, slightly smokey (from grilling the cucumbers on the EGG), and amazing. It had a distinct Greek tzatziki characteristic that was marvelous.

**Yes, for those of you who were savvy enough to attend Dig-IN this year, you may have tasted it at the Chef JJ's Backyard booth.

This was such a phenomenal experience that it will require a two-part blog.  To be continued...

Palomino

When my boss comes to town (she's based in Chicago), I always look forward to sharing a meal with her.  She has impeccable taste in wine and enjoys food as much as I do. Not only is she a fantastic conversationalist and a great listener (with many tales of triumph, folly, and humor), but she is just fun!

Since she is from Chicago, I can't help but be on a subconscious quest to brag on my city and all of its best parts.  I've taken her to many of my favorite spots to eat (Petite Chou, Harry & Izzy's) and drink (Midtown Grill, Olive's) in a constant quest to show off how great Indy is.  So far I think I'm doing okay, as she regards Indianapolis as clean, safe, accessible, and pretty, with very nice people and a lot to do. (I second those sentiments.)

The Albarino flight at Palomino

Because of her truly insane travel schedule, I often have to meet her at or near her hotel.  This time, staying downtown, we choose Palomino (we can't completely break the company bank, but it's dinner rush hour and we don't want to have a long wait). Our server is a handsome, exuberant mid-20s foodie and he starts us off straight away with a flight of Albariños:  Martin Codáx Rias Baixas (Spain), Bonny Doon Ca-Del Sol (Monterrey County), Don Olegario Rias Biáxas (Spain).  This is the perfect flight to illustrate the difference between old world and new world wines.  The old world wines (the two Spanish selections) were subtly crisp, refined, and very balanced.  The new world wine (Bonny Doon) was bold, in your face with its almost briny, green acidity.  See more on Albariño below (such a great choice this time of year!):

Albariño (Galician pronunciation: [albaˈɾiːɲo]) or Alvarinho (Portuguese: [alvaˈɾiːɲo]) is a variety of white wine grape grown in Galicia (northwest Spain) and Monção (northwest Portugal), where it is used to make varietal white wines.

Albariño is actually the Galician name for the grape, with Albarín Blanco an occasional synonym. In Portugal it is known as Alvarinho, and sometimes as Cainho Branco. [1]

It was presumably brought to Iberia by Cluny monks in the twelfth century. Its name "Alba-Riño" means "the white from Rhine" and it has locally been thought to be a Riesling clone originating from the Alsace region of France, although earliest known records of Riesling as a grape variety date from the 15th, rather than the 12th, century. It is also theorized that the grape is a close relative of the French grape Petit Manseng. [2]

It should not be confused with the Alvarinho Liláz grape of Madeira.  The above article is courtesy of Celletracker.com  Acccess the full article here.

 

Anyway, we both liked the two old world wines much better than the Bonny Doon, and we were very happy with all of this albariño in front of us.  We split a Rotisserie Chicken Flatbread with arugula pesto, roasted peppers, and romano cheese.  It is very tasty, but not life-changing.  It does hit the spot though while we wait for the main events.  I order paella and my boss orders Halibut.  

Heaven-sent Paella

The paella is a risk, and I know it.  Since tasting paella in Spain years ago, I have been drastically disappointed in most versions I have ordered stateside.  Our adorable server swears on his life that it will be amazing. Skeptical, I hope for the best. I must say, this is absolutely the best paella I've had since Spain (maybe even better).  The fish wasn't dry, there was lots of flavor from the spicy chorizo, the saffron was perfectly aromatic.  It was heaven.  My companion thoroughly enjoyed her halibut, but I don't think it was quite the transformative experience of the paella.

While dessert sounded good, we are both too full of albariño and fish to move (except we did somehow end up at Harry & Izzy's for a nightcap).  I really don't know precisely what this meal cost, but I do know two things.  First, it wasn't the most expensive meal either of us had eaten; secondly, it definitely wasn't the most affordable either.  All I know is that I would pay plenty for that luscious, take-me-back-to-Barcelona-in-one-bite paella. ¡Fantástico! I give Palomino 4/5 for excellent service, great food, and a paella that is mind-blowing. I'm sure the company and conversation did make a bit of difference, but isn't that always the case? By the way, my boss only reads this blog on occasion, so this is not a shameless brown-nosing attempt.  Cheers!

Table 52 (Guest Blog)

My friend Laurie recently took a weekend trip to Chicago to visit a foodie friend.  She was specifically on a mission to visit Art Smith's Table 52, the restaurant venture that pulled the celebrity chef away from his famous Oprah Winfrey duties. Having been a long-time fan of Smith, I asked Laurie for a quick interview on her experience. This is a momentous post for food + fizz, our first guest blog!

So Laurie, what was your favorite thing about Table 52?

I loved the cozy, warm, Southern charm of the place.  It was just so inviting!   My friend and I were also obsessed with the goat cheese, parmesan and chive biscuit that they served us when we were seated.  It was one of the best things I have ever eaten.  If they gave us another one it could have been the whole dinner!

What else was memorable about what you ate?

After the biscuit, they served us 2 deviled eggs with bay shrimp.  It must be their signature, because every dinner guest got one.

So it sounds like that is their amuse bouche?

Yes, I think so.  It was fabulous.  For dinner we ordered a sea bass special and the "Farm To Crust" of the day, which was a flatbread featuring local vegetables and artisinal cheeses.  Everything was fresh and delicious.

Did you get to meet Art Smith?

Yes! He came around to every table, it was so exciting... It made my night!

Was he as sweet as he seems on television?

Yes.  He was incredibly genuine.  He spoke with every single guest, and hung out the whole night chatting with guests and checking on tables.

What was the most surprising thing about Table 52?

The first was that the food was incredibly reasonable in price.  I was blown away! On the other hand, the wine list was very pricey.  The cheapest bottle was $90. At least there were a few to choose from, but we were shocked by that. We drank a Robert Sinskey Cabernet France (2007), and we enjoyed it very much.

Would you eat there again?

Well, I would definitely recommend it!  I am very glad I went, but there are so many fabulous places in Chicago I would probably opt to try someplace new.  But that's just me!

What would you rank it out of 5?

A solid 4/5. We had a great experience!

Thanks, Laurie!  I think f+f will have to do a hands-on review sometime soon. Cheers...

Table 52

52 W. Elm Street Chicago
Reservations 312.573.4000

Monday-Saturday  5pm-9:30pm

Sunday  4pm-8:30pm

Sunday Brunch  10:30am-2pm

Splurge-worthy Wine

Last night I was invited to an industry wine tasting for one of the local distributors here in Indianapolis.  I used to attend so many of these events that they almost became a chore (I know--what was I thinking!?!).  Now I look forward to them with great anticipation, as they are few and far between (and my real job doesn't involve any sort of libation consumption).

I jumped at the chance (thank you, Brad Sullivan!) to attend the Carroll Wine and Spirits Annual Wine Gala.  As one of their former regular customers (and now a much smaller but hopefully still valued customer), I understand that this event serves dual purposes.  The first is to thank their clients (restaurants, caterers, and hotels around Indiana who buy their wine and spirits from them). The second is to introduce these clients to new potential wines on their lists.  Many of these wines are so amazing and exclusive that they only are open once a year. 

Duval-Leroy
Femme de Champagne
2000 $125

In my wine lounge days, I attended these showcases as a goal-oriented taster to accomplish specific tasks.  One year I needed to fill the gaps in my wine list, another to swap out sluggish movers, and a third to expand into new wine list territory. This year, however, as an independent blogger with no wine list (other than our house list and some random private wine tastings), I went with one goal in mind: drink the good stuff.  Scratch that, my goal was really to drink the really good stuff.

With literally hundreds of wines to taste (41 tables with anywhere from 4-25 wines apiece), this was a monumental task.  Never fear, though, I had a strategy. Though it seems simple, it worked like a charm.  I simply found everyone I knew in the room who knew a lot about wine (there were dozens to chose from) and asked them what their favorite wines of the day were.  Behold! Arriving late to the party did have a few nice perks.

Chateau Potelle
VGS Zinfindel 2009 $65

In wine, like just about everything in life, you get what you pay for (for the most part).  My specialty is value, but even I believe that sometimes you just have to splurge.  I have some kitchy cocktail napkins that say "Life is short.  Drink the good wine now!" Though this can be a bit of a struggle in these penny-pinching times, I am trying to do my best to follow this sage advice (never mind that it was from a napkin).

Without further ado (drum roll please) the best things I drank: [note: my tasting notes are after f+f, I quoted other wine tasting publication notes as well.]

Duval Leroy Femme de Champagne 2001 f+f review: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir create a lovely golden cuvee that reveals a complex flavor palette of brioche, vanilla and wood aromas alternating with citrus fruits. This champagne is not just for the celebration, it is the reason to celebrate. $120

Clos de L'Oratoire Chateauneuf du Pape 2007 $35

WS 91pts. - WA 90pts. - According to Wine Spectator: Full-bodied and ripe, with a juicy core of plum, boysenberry and fig fruit backed by cocoa, espresso and black licorice notes. A nice graphite edge helps lends just enough definition on the finish. A textbook expression of the vintage. Drink now through 2017. According to the Wine Advocate: The 2007 traditional Chateauneuf du Pape is a beauty – deep ruby/purple in color with a classic nose of jammy black cherries and black currants intermixed with lavender, spice box, fruit cake, and pepper. It is a medium to full-bodied wine with silky tannins, an alluring texture, and terrific purity and length. Drink it over the next decade

Jarvis Cabernet Franc 2006 f+f review: This Cabernet Franc (blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon), spends 23 months in French oak to lend balance the plum and blackberry notes.  It is a true standout in a competitive red field. $98

Pahlmeyer Chardonnay Napa Valley 2009 $60

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - 95 pts, Robert Parker - Consistently one of the top Chardonnays in California, Pahlmeyers 2009 exhibits an impressive, thick-looking, light gold color with green hues. Loads of peach, creme brulee, honeysuckle, and subtle oak are present in this full-bodied, well-endowed, pedal-to-the-metal style of Chardonnay that will appeal to those who like white Burgundy, but with additional richness. Given its track record, expect this wine to age nicely for 5-6 years. Tel. (707) 255-2321; Fax (707) 255-6786 - Dec 2010

Chateau Potelle VGS Zinfindel 2009 $65 f+f review: Intense and elegant, this wine showcases an amazing 2009 California zinfindel harvest.  Red fruit, spices and oak melt into an easy, lingering finish that is incredibly refined, even in its youth.

Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve 2007 $50

WE 95pts. According to Wine Enthusiast:  A very elegant and refined Evenstad Reserve, with grace notes of sandalwood and a lovely cherry core. The fruit is immaculate, the concentration focused and lengthy, and the flavors are so artfully blended that the wine is seamless and perfectly balanced. Although it is drinking like a mature wine, there is every reason to cellar wines such as this— it can develop like a fine Burgundy, over decades.

Sometimes life calls for a splurge.  When splurging, I like to make sure it is worth every penny.  While the French proverb stating, "It is impossible to overdo luxury," may not be your personal credo (nor mine), a splurge every now and then is just plain nice. Cheers!