food + fizz: September 2011

quick favorites round-up

The following is a quick round-up of current f + f obsessions.

Pizzology's weekday lunch special

You get a Pizzeta Persona (definitely big enough to be satisfying) + small chop salad or a cup of the daily house made soup + fountain soda or fresh brewed iced tea for $9. (served M-F from 11a-2p). Right now I'm digging mushrooms and smoked mozzarella on a red pie, and prosciutto and artichokes on a white pie.

Kokomo 2008 Cuvee 4791 Dry Creek Valley

This blend is the perfect wine to go with a chilly autumn evening and a fireplace. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfindel, Carignan, Petitie Syrah, and Syrah combine to make a nose filled with leather and blackberry. The body is full of rich oak and dark fruit, and the finish is dry and earthy. It has a great mouth feel which makes it deliciously sippable with no food. I happened to pair it with dark chocolate, and it was a home run.

NEW 1933 Lounge (St Elmo)

This upstairs lounge is everything what the downtown scene has been begging for! It is cozy, comfortable, chic, and the personal service is unmatched in other night spots. The ambiance is warm, with a vintage-industrial Americana feel. I know this will be incredibly popular, but selfishly I would love for it to stay under the radar.

Riondo Rosé Prosecco with a splash of St. Germain Perfection. Enough said.

Chimichurri Pesto

I've been buying this at the Broad Ripple Farmer's Market (my favorite is from the Country Mouse stand, but there are a few other vendors). It is hands-down the best way to prepare lamb kebabs. Marinate the kebab meat in the pesto (1/2 c), lemon zest, 1/4 c of olive oil, and 1/2 cup of plain yogurt for up to 48 hours. As soon as the kebabs come off the grill, brush them with more pesto and serve. I serve them with couscous and grilled veggies. This is also a great marinade for pork chops (just lose the yogurt). The pesto freezes beautifully for year-round use.

2005 Amphora Cabernet Sauvignon, Polesky Vineyard (Sonoma County)
This  cab is the perfect way to usher in the autumn chill.  It is big and  bold, but well-balanced and round.  Be sure to decant it, as it is much  better after it has an hour to breathe.

Trader Joe's English Cheddar with Caramelized Onions

This is a great party cheese. It's unexpected sweetness plays well against the sharpness of the cheddar, and keeps the crowd interested ("wow! what is that?" will be exclaimed multiple times). It's a no-brainer to serve with any cracker or crostini you have lying around the house.

People's Mound Builder IPA (Lafayette, IN)

While we always try to have great local beer on tap in our basement bar (affectionately known to our neighbors and friends as the Paxton Pub), all of our house guests just can't stop talking about this one. It has huge hops but is very smooth. Check it out.

Cheers!

Guest Blogger: Ryan Hussey

Guest Blogger Ryan Hussey

After about 750 weekly dinners I thought it might be a good time to start writing about them. Every week I go to the market with a friend and we decide on a menu for the evening. This usually consists of about four to five courses. We see food as an adventure and feel there are really no bounds. On the evening of August 10, 2011 a dinner party of special importance was held. My friends from Texas were joining us, a couple of their friends, a friend that I had not seen in a long time and her significant other joined as well. When you know something about people you also know their likes and dislikes and usually that trickles down to the others in the group.

What makes food fun is the almost innumerable ways in which to combine, create, and extract the flavors. What makes it more enjoyable is the company that gets to enjoy and, in a way, help by adding substance to the food with camaraderie and the joy of great discourse that makes the time most enjoyable.

Our hosts' beautiful home and patio

My motto is “have fun with your food.” Do not hesitate to experiment with new flavors or processes to deliver interesting dishes. Sometimes you may find your combinations do not harmonize in the most exacting fashion, but really when it comes down to it, who cares? As long as your friends and guests are happy, then so you should be as well. We all have recipes or dishes that we make that may not be three Michelin stars, but we all have different likes and dislikes and this is what makes it fun.

Our table

While shopping for a dinner party, unless you are shopping for a caterer, we should not only look for extremely fresh produce, but do NOT be afraid of pre-made food items such as smoked salmon, frozen berries, etc. Not only can you use these items in the same fashion you would if you were to make them yourself, but it also takes time to do these types of specialties. It just depends on how much time you have to contribute to the preparation and cooking of the meal.

On to the party:

Tortilla chips; Blueberry-cabernet Reduction

First Course: Home made tortilla chips and store bought guacamole.

Guacamole can easily be made at home, but the Fresh Market does an excellent job at both mild and spicy versions. For the price, you can’t beat it. I would have made my own, but we were cooking for nine and I felt that there were other items that I wanted to spend more time on. Tortilla Chips – I usually use canola oil and fill a frying pan with about 2 to 3 inches deep. I but whole-wheat tortillas and cut them into 8ths. I also don’t really pay attention to the temperature of the oil, but keep the flame on high till the tortilla browns on the bottom after about 20 seconds, then flip. Thank you to the sous chef Colby Shoop that worked the golden chip magic.

Salmon Florets

Second Course: Salmon Florets

Using packaged smoked salmon, roll the individual pieces and cut in the center to make the petals. For this one I stabilized it with fresh crab dip, seasoned with smoked pepper and chives. For the ball, I finely chopped the salmon, mixed in some of the crab dip, and some bitter orange marmalade. Chill and add as tasty garnish.

Third Course: Grilled New York Strips

I took a fresh package of blueberries and placed them into a blender with 3 cups of cabernet, ½ cup of cointreau and a cup of cranberry juice. I reduced the liquid to about one quarter. The vehicle to this sauce was a grilled peppered New York strip steak. I also made some roasted garlic and used the garlic to spread on top of the steak before the saucing. Surrounding the steak was grilled spring onion, in which I marinated in olive oil and some spices before grilling.

Dark Chocolate Orange Souffle

Dessert: Dark Chocolate Orange Soufflé. Recipe available upon request (just leave a comment or email foodplusfizz@gmail.com).

Thanks, f+f for letting me share!

1933 Lounge (St Elmo)

Well, well, well.. what do we have here? Could it really be true? Downtown Indianapolis has a real lounge? It's true. Better yet, it's the kind of place you want to sit down and [literally] stay awhile. It's smoke free. It's not overly noisy (even when crowded!). It's beautiful. It just may be perfect.

St. Elmo's opened its upstairs 1933 Lounge this past weekend. As an unabashed lounge enthusiast and a huge fan of the concept of enjoying an evening out without having to eat in a traditional restaurant, I braved opening night. Call me crazy, but I just couldn't keep myself away. Maybe it was a foodie's instinct, but I just had a hunch this place would be special. This is Elmo after all, and they take their reputation seriously.

We are ushered upstairs at the front door and immediately greeted by a lovely hostess. The host staff is comprised of lithe beauties in their own red dresses (brilliant!), making them as easy to find as they are stylish. As Elmo does, the place is staffed to the nines, completely thwarting the concept of being slammed, giving poor service, and having unsatisfied guests.

I have to take a little time to gush about the decor. I instantly fall in love with the exposed brick, beautiful wood floors and eclectic lighting. This place is big--but it feels cozy and approachable. Every seating area has it's own unique feel--antique mirrors, sideboards, chandeliers, or sconces set each area apart--but it is a very cohesive concept. I can't stop staring at everything because it is just so darn gorgeous. Ahhhh... I digress.

The signature cocktail

Back to the review! We opt for a seating area with a comfy cognac leather sofa and two great club chairs. We decide to give the place the full Monty: appetizers, specialty cocktails, the works! Courtney and I order the French 75. The boys order the signature Elmo Cola, which is a fancy bourbon and Coke. Then we order apps. I am in love with their menu, because you can actually eat a full meal without ordering a bunch of fried food or super-heavy dips. Leave it to Elmo to have not one, not two, but four beef options as appetizers!

Like beef-starved travelers fresh out of India, we order all four: Filet Chops (I've only heard of this mysterious wonder), Beef Carpaccio, Filet Sliders and Mac + Cheese, and a sliced New York Strip with Parmesan Crisps. Though we try really (really!) hard to eat like civilized folk in a high-society setting, we still manage to wolf down everything in a matter of a few minutes. The food blew all of us away. Between Courtney and Jeff we have about the two biggest and most critical beef eaters I've ever seen, so that's really saying something!

The carpaccio is the best version any of us had ever had. The cheeky menu touts it as "pounded nirvana," and I can't disagree. The arugula, capers, parmaggiano reggiano, and lemon were just perfect compliments to said pounded nirvana. The macaroni and cheese had a pleasant and surprising amount of white pepper, which combined with the bacon to make it zingy (and not too salty!). The sliders are always awesome (we knew that going in). The sliced New York was topped with an herb-garlic butter sauce that was to die for.... Those little filet chops (think lamb chop but of filet mignon) were succulent and definitely worthy of the Elmo name.

We also loved our cocktails. The French 75 has gin, St. Germain, prosecco, and lemon (I secretly think they concocted this just for me). The Elmo Cola was cute... served with mini Coke bottles with an optional $8 shot to make a second cocktail with your leftover half-bottle. Jeff likes those little bottles so much he just drank his straight up. The Spicy Margarita was a little watered-down at first, but they fixed it and it was great. The Russian Mule was served in a funny little copper mug. It had the very distinctive flavor of strong ginger beer.

Our service was impeccable. The General Manager, Chris, stopped by right away and periodically checked in to make sure everything was up to snuff. Our server was friendly and attentive. On night one the place seemed to run like a well-oiled machine. As a veteran of this industry I understand just how rare (and improbable) that is. Then again, this is Elmo, and they get it right.

Filet Chops

Carpaccio

Slider w/Mac+Cheese

Russian Mule

New York with Parmesan

French 75 (aka F+F)

Sublimely Happy Foodie

I give 1933 Lounge top marks of 5/5. It's pricey, but it's worth it. Jeff and I decided we will enjoy this prime location at least one a month, even if it is just for a cocktail and a split beefetizer. I will absolutely take my boss the next time she is in town, because she will love me (and Indy) more afterward. The food and drinks are outstanding, the service is personal, and the ambiance cannot be beat. I will continue to rave about this remarkable downtown gem. As I told Chris (the GM), I may never go downstairs again. Cheers!

Make It Right (part two)

...continued from the Sept 8 2010 post

Indiana Duck

Let me catch you up. At this point in the evening we are feeling fine. We have had fabulous wine and amazing food up until this point, and Chef JJ and his staff have been personal, attentive, and a true pleasure. Our table company (a recipe blogger named Kate and her husband Connie) is absolutely hilarious. The conversation couldn't be better: full of great stories and personalities. We are having such a great time that we don't want the night to end.

So far every course has been better than the last. First came the wow-worthy smoked beef bruschetta with its pickled vegetable crunch and subtle barbecue back notes. Then came the amazing chilled cucumber soup that was equal parts refreshing and indulgent. Next, the roasted prawn panzanella impressed even the biggest panzanella critic at our table (yours truly) with its fresh take on the Italian summer classic.

Then came the duck. Oh my goodness was that duck amazing! The skin was so crispy, the meat so tender and succulent. There was just enough smoky house-made barbecue sauce to add an acidic component. The biggest surprise was the corn. The unassuming half-cob on the plate was the best corn I have ever had. Coming from someone who has lived in Indiana much of her life, this is saying something. It was smoke-grilled to perfection and finished with a garlic-basil butter.

As good as the duck was (and it was!), the pork tenderloin was a fierce rival. We went back and forth the rest of the night debating the merits of each. The pork was slow-smoked and finished with a red currant jus full of herbs and aromatics. Cooked to perfection (still pink throughout), it was to die for.

Roasted Pork Loin w/Currant Jus

To forget Grandma Betty's homemade pound cake (cooked right on that crazy little EGG), would be like forgetting the sweetest kiss at the end of a first date. Impossible. It would be like forgetting to wake up for your presents on Christmas morning (unthinkable). Grandma Betty's pound cake, topped with gooseberries, strawberries and blackberries, was the perfect end to this unbelievable meal. The chantilly cream, scented with fresh vanilla, was delightfully unsweetened to bring out the sweetness of the fruit. Often, I think whipped cream (and its added sugar) puts a dessert into the "so-sweet-you-can-barely-taste-it" category. When I tasted that chantilly cream, my conviction that Chef JJ's Backyard just gets it was unshakable. They have that special something you can't teach, the intuitive ability to pair flavors so that the total experience truly is greater than the sum of its parts.

Grandma Betty's Poundcake w/Gooseberries

I am so appreciative that, after some difficult feedback (on food that wasn't all theirs, no less), Chef JJ's Backyard chose to redeem the Make It Local dinner by completely blowing their guests away.  I am convinced that every single person who attended the Make It Right dinner will be a raving fan of Chef JJ and his staff's innovative EGG cooking for the long haul.  Our party has already discussed what sort of private event we can dream up just to approximate that experience again.  The best compliment I can give Chef JJ is my business, and I can assure you all that I will be a loyal customer. Cheers!

Chateau de Pique

Chateau de Pique Tasting Room

A friend of mine called me up and said she had a great little girls after-hours planned. She had a Groupon for a new tasting room called Chateau de Pique in Castleton. Knowing nothing about Chateau de Pique, I said sure.

The Groupon was a 10 varietal tasting for four (10 wines? wow!) with a cheese and fruit platter* in an adorable little train car. Nice enough. Gary is our tasting guide for the evening, and poor Gary is completely slammed with Groupon tables like us. He is adorable and accommodating, but I can tell he is new to the wine industry and I immediately feel for him as he tries to keep up with his tables' demands.

He gives us a brief history of Chateau de Pique, their wines, et cetera. Their winery and vineyard is in Seymour. I notice that their tagline is "One of the finest wineries in Southern Indiana**"--uh oh. Still hopeful, I make my selections from their long list of wines (22 including port). I notice a lot of red flags on their list (for instance, lots of fruit wines and wines labeled "sweet"). Determined to keep an open mind, I choose a varied selection. I glance over at my friend Laurie (who is a knowledgeable wine consumer), and I detect a hint of doubt under her optimistic smile. We must press on!

Chateau de Pique Tasting Room

The Riesling was fine. It really was. But for $15 the bottle it would never be my choice. The Traminette (a popular Indiana grape) was ok. The eight other wines we tasted were pretty terrible. As I look at my tasting notes, each one has a word next to it that is not so nice. "Hot" appears often (ie, all you taste is the alcohol), as well as "petrolly" (aka jet-fuelish), "too astringent," "as much oak as a tree," and "crazy smoky." I have high hopes for the fruit wines, but they were so incredibly sweet I felt like I needed to brush my teeth immediately in order not to incur emergency dental bills.

Poor Gary, he did his best. When we asked for a dump bucket, he was visibly saddened and I truly felt bad. But Gary: if you are reading this, don't despair! A little more time in this industry and your eyes will be opened to wine that will knock the socks off of your customers (in a good way). We tipped Gary well and left knowing we would never buy any wine from Chateau de Pique. Oh well, at least it was just a Groupon. Cheers!

*I should note that the cheese plate was cubed cheddar and colby-jack with Ritz crackers and grapes. Oh well.  

**I do want to note that I have had some great experiences with Indiana wine, namely with Creekbend and Mallow Run wines. Indiana wine is not California wine (some wineries do use California grapes, however, like Cateau Thomas). Nevertheless, Indiana wine does have some good surprises. I encourage you all to keep an open mind (just skip Chateau de Pique).

Make It Right Dinner (follow-up to Make It Local)

The Make It Local dinner, as chronicled in this blog, was not my favorite meal or event of the year. In fact, it didn't even make the top 100. It was a thorough disappointment after several years of enthusiastic participation and high expectations.

Chef JJ addressing one of his tables

While Chef JJ's Backyard did not provide all of the food for that dinner, they were the hosts. Within a few days of posting the f+f blog about the event, they had emailed me thanking me for my honest feedback (impressive). Also within a few days, the owners of Chef JJ's Backyard had organized a "Make It Right" concept: a series of available dinner dates for everyone who had attended the first event (beyond impressive). We reserved our spot immediately.

Stunning opener of smoked Beef Bruschetta

If ever there was a successful customer service initiative, this was it! From the moment we walked in we were treated like something between close family (remembering each of our names all night) and royalty (the service level was impeccable). The food was mind-blowing, but we'll get to that.

Chef JJ started off by an informal introduction to address the reasoning behind the Make It Right. Though they weren't directly responsible for all of the details of the Make It Local event, they wanted to take this opportunity to thank us for our support and show us their brand of food and service. Dually noted!

We started off drinking some phenomenal wine provided by Graybull Organic Wines and local beer from Sun King Brewery while we met the people at our table. I should note that my glass never even made it to half-way empty.

Roasted Prawn Panzanella + Chilled Cucumber Soup

The first course was a home run called Dig-IN's Beef Bruschetta**. This was the description on the menu: "slow smoked beef shoulder paired with our famous grilled bread and spicy pickled Indiana vegetables." What the description didn't say was how the beef melted in your mouth, the crunch from the pickled carrot and onion exploded with flavor, and the subtle watermelon-peach barbecue sauce set the whole thing off. I didn't start the meal exceptionally hungry (late lunch), and I made a Herculean effort not to wolf down my generous portion in 5 seconds. In fact, our incredibly chatty table ceased all conversation in favor of appreciative "mmm" noises. What a start!

The soup and salad course was a duo of chilled cucumber soup and a roasted prawn panzanella. If you've ever eaten at my house you are probably familiar with panzanella--that incredible summer staple of crusty toasted bread, tomato, mozzarella and basil in some sort of delicious vinaigrette. Truthfully, I have never liked anyone else's better than mine. Believe me, I know how narcissistic this sounds, but it is true... everyone has that one thing that they rock! This roasted prawn version was heaven.... The chilled cucumber soup was creamy, slightly smokey (from grilling the cucumbers on the EGG), and amazing. It had a distinct Greek tzatziki characteristic that was marvelous.

**Yes, for those of you who were savvy enough to attend Dig-IN this year, you may have tasted it at the Chef JJ's Backyard booth.

This was such a phenomenal experience that it will require a two-part blog.  To be continued...

in honor of my brother (a strawberry kid)

Today is my little brother's birthday. He is not a foodie. He has actually told me that if there was a pill he could take to sustain himself instead having to eat, he would. About this time, you may be asking how on earth we can be related. Good question! We do have things in common, but obsessing over every single item consumed is not one of them.

That said, there are a few things in the food realm that--though he may not readily admit it-- get my brother very excited. Babyback ribs, lasagna, and strawberry shortcake come to mind. Now ribs are not my thing (although I will be shortly begging a friend of mine to blog about his amazing ribs), and it is just the wrong season for lasagna (though it is right around the corner). So strawberry shortcake it is!

Instead of boring you with a recipe, I found a great posting that has a plethora of amazing ideas for strawberries. Enjoy them as summer is winding down...

http://www.thekitchn.com/thekitchn/dessert-ideas-with-strawberries-115337

And a very HAPPY BIRTHDAY to my favorite brother Ryne Fanning, a smart, kind, and sincere guy who is a wonderful brother, son, uncle, and friend. Ladies, take note, he is also single!