Libertine, coaster |
I had heard so much hype about the new Neal Brown venture downtown, Libertine, that I was almost worried to try it for fear of disappointment. That explains why it took me so long to actually get there.
Seelbach + Gin Fizz |
When Jeff and I anxiously made the effort, it took some time to actually find the place. Construction on Washington Street certainly did not help matters, but their sign is rather inconspicuous. I had the feeling that this was by design so as to keep the place feeling a little hidden, it is a Prohibition throw-back, after all. Once we found parking and our destination, the inside had a very, very cool vibe. It had the clean precision of a sushi bar, but it also had a little bit of a hush-hush feel about it, complete with dim lighting. Neutral from ceiling to floor, it felt modern and architectural.
Libertine |
Service was attentive but not without a few missteps. For instance, I had asked our server to recommend a good sparkling wine by the glass. She pointed me toward a rose (roses and bubbly are paired on their wine list, so I went with it). When she returned with a rose that was clearly not sparkling--and in the tell-tale white wine glass--she was confused when I spoke up. It took me far too long to convince her that I had wanted bubbly. That kind of lack of training surprised me a bit. I was a big fan of Le Explorateur, a bygone Neal Brown venture in Broad Ripple. Le Explorateur had my all-time favorite wine list, and the servers were impeccable in their knowledge and recommendations. Alas, times have changed. I digress...
Wild Mushroom Salad |
We also ordered a pair of traditional cocktails. Jeff had the Seelbach Cocktail Redux: Kentucky Vintage Bourbon, Orange, Lemon, Prosecco. He liked it very much. I ordered and Gin Fizz, which was nice. (It wasn't too sweet, which I appreciated, but it also was not overwhelmingly delicious either. One was enough.)
We went to Libertine not knowing if we would actually eat dinner, or just snack over cocktails. The menu is all small plates, organized by traditional course. There are salads, appetizers, entrees, and desserts. We ordered the things I had heard most raving reviews about: Beef Tataki and Duck Meatballs. We threw in the wild mushroom salad for kicks. The Duck Meatballs were served on a bed of deep-fried gnocchi. I was expecting to love the dish just based on this alone. I actually found the meatballs to be flavorful, but the gnochhi (though deep fried) was dry and starchy. The broth at the bottom was scrumptious, and the use of the egg yolk to richen the whole experience was genius.
Duck Meatballs |
The Beef Tataki was totally disappointing. I found the meat to be too fatty and fibrous to be served ahi-tuna-style seared rare. The flavors were nicely balanced with the traditional Asian profile (the arugula was a nice addition), but the texture just didn't work for me at all. The mushroom salad was chock-full of deliciousness. The fried garbanzo beans and cauliflower puree were a fabulous addition to the sultry, earthy mushrooms. The enoki mushrooms added a nice textural component as well.
Beef Tataki |