The Gentle Genius Behind Neal Brown

L. Brown in Libertine

Neal Brown has cemented himself directly in the middle of the whirlwind also known as the Indy food scene. Many of us remember (and yearn for) his iconic but short-lived l'Explorateur. Indianapolis may not have been ready for such an ambitious culinary vision; it certainly was not the burgeoning mecca of eateries and drinkeries it is quickly becoming. Now known for Pizzology and Libertine, Neal Brown has emerged as a premier chef and a big (big!) personality championing the local food scene. Most recently, his DigINdiana efforts resulted in record-shattering attendance for the new event. He seems to be everywhere.

Pizzalogy specials men

Throughout the course of my various exploits, I ended up meeting Lindy Brown, his wife and a noted sommelier who spends most of her professional efforts with Libertine Liquor Bar. Hospitality insiders know Lindy as a sweet, honest, thoughtful woman who kicks the tail out of every wine list she touches. As one wine professional told me of her, "I find her to be incredibly kind and even more capable." She has a lot of industry respect, which is not always easy to come by in the foodie fishbowl of ego and bravado. On a related note, Brown's l'Explorateur wine list was my favorite of all time. Sigh...

We decide to meet at Libertine for a pre-service conversation over a shared love of French (dry) rose, and then later over a beautiful glass of bubbly (Joseph Perrier Cuvee Royale) for their one-year anniversary. Lindy is an effortless beauty, and wears an easy smile despite the stress of the all-hands-on-deck industry she and Neal have chosen. So here is a rare look at Lindy, the gentle genius behind Neal. (Oh yeah, she's also a mom with two kids.)

F+F: So what are the non-Neal Brown menu items you crave around Indy?

Pizzology pie

LB: Chorizo tacos and guacamole at La Parada. I grew up vegetarian so it's a little weird that I crave them but I do! Their salsa is amazing too.

F+F: What are your favorite "best kept secrets " in Indy right now? Anything we should know about but don't yet?
LB: Well, I really, really like what Bluebeard is doing. I think they will do well. I also love Katie Hansen's wine list at Room Four. I always try, but I still haven't made it all the way through!
F+F: I agree. Room Four is my favorite place in town to a great bottle under $30. It's a perfect date spot!

F+F: What is your go-to glass of wine at the end of a hard day?
LB: In my fridge right now at home is the Domaine de Nizas rose (a Grenache/Syrah blend).
F+F: I knew we would be friends when I saw this on your list. I'm happy that rose finally seems to be shaking its unfortunate "white zin" reputation. For me it's all about dry rose and great bubbly. I could drink good French champagne early and often.
LB: Totally agree. Actually, I find that champagne and fried chicken are a fabulous pairing! I once spent days researching the best fried chicken recipes and it ended up being amazing. I guess that's a best-kept secret too...
F+F: Sounds like perfection!

F+F: Now for a toughie: How would you describe your and Neal's brand?
LB: That's so hard... I guess if I had to boil it down it would be fine food and service without the atmosphere. We knew after l'Explorateur that we would never do another white table cloth concept here. We want to translate that level of experience, making it approachable (maybe a little rustic) to the everyday person. Like what we did here [at Libertine].... People always talk about Prohibition/Pre-Prohibition stuff, but we really just wanted to focus on cocktails that are well-balanced and food-friendly. How would you describe it? I always like to hear other people's perceptions...

Lindy and Neal Brown

F+F: I would say the thing that ties Libertine and Pizzology is that the food is clean: innovative but not overworked. The atmospheres are very distinctive and current, and are made to make people comfortable and not intimidated. I am always pleasantly surprised how family-friendly Pizzology is!
LB: Yeah, we really wanted to be a local hang-out and appeal to the surrounding community there [in Carmel]. 
F+F: But at the same time your wine list is all Italian, which had to be a huge risk in Indianapolis.
LB: (laughing) I was actually strongly advised against that by many people, but it was just the right decision with the food and the concept. The biggest sellers are still the more "Western" or "New World" wines, but hey, it's a start.
F+F: I admire you for sticking to your guns. The change has to start somewhere, and it may as well be with you. Do you get the sense that Indy is ready to take it to the next level?
LB: Absolutely; you can feel it. There are great things happening everywhere, and we are happy to be here at this point in the city's history.
F+F: Well, it's a little more than that. You and Neal are becomgin a big part of this city's food history. Bravo!

Of course she (predictably) demurred that last statement, and let me assure you it is true. Lindy is a huge aspect of the Neal Brown machine. In fact, she may even be a bigger cog in the wheel. Regardless, getting to know her was and is a true pleasure. We chatted that afternoon until we both had other places to be (duty calls!), and I found her to be just as delightful as I was expecting, and even more humble. She, like many successful women I meet, has a wonderful confidence in her abilities while allowing those around her to take most of the limelight. Lindy studied English and Theatre at IU, and she told me that when she is in character she loves being onstage, but when she's 'just herself' she dislikes the attention and is happy to let Neal take the spotlight.  When I asked what her life would look like 10 years from now, she said that Libertine would be thriving and staying relevant, and there would be many more Pizzology locations. Perhaps even one in Broad Ripple? Did I hear that rumor somewhere perhaps? In the meantime, I will be driving uptown for Pizza and great Italian wine and local beer, and downtown for innovative cocktails and food, and on we will go. Cheers to that!